"Frank Grimes" (FrankGrimes)
09/23/2016 at 14:14 • Filed to: None
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"Frank Grimes" (FrankGrimes)
09/23/2016 at 14:14 • Filed to: None | 1
| 13 |
a good site or book about electrical connectors for automotive stuff. I would like to learn on how to disassemble them and install new ones etc.
In the process of removing the miata drivetrain and installing crap i realize how little i know about how to take the pins out of connectors if they break and replacing the connectors and stuff like that.
crowmolly
> Frank Grimes
09/23/2016 at 14:20 |
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http://www.madelectrical.com/catalog/tb-1.shtml
MAD in general is very good. Site is super old though.
jimz
> Frank Grimes
09/23/2016 at 14:21 |
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not off the top of my head. the vast majority now are automotive-specific connectors. The big suppliers are Tyco, Molex, Sumitomo, and Yazaki, and most aren’t sold on the open market. but if you can identify who made the connector, it might be possible to get replacement contacts. they usually need a “no insulation” crimper for these style pins:
and a crimper with jaws like this:
Mattbob
> Frank Grimes
09/23/2016 at 14:27 |
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buy some veeery small flathead screwdrivers. Thats the first thing you need. Other than that, I usually learn by just looking at them and playing around. I am an EE in automotive so I get a lot of exposure. Lol, if you post pictures of a connector, I could probably help you out with where to start taking it apart.
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Mattbob
> jimz
09/23/2016 at 14:28 |
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newark is actually surprisingly good at stocking a lot of automotive connectors. Yazaki is pretty tricky though. You can also usually get by with a generic crimper if you are good (those crimpers are expensive and very specialized). I usually add a dab of solder though for security.
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jimz
> Mattbob
09/23/2016 at 14:40 |
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it all depends on who paid to develop the connector. if it’s something Tyco or Molex came up with themselves and shopped around to the car companies, they can sell them on the open market. Yazaki is tricky because most of their stuff is developed specifically for the automakers’ applications. which means the car company pays for the engineering/development and testing, and owns the design. So Yazaki doesn’t retain the right to sell them on the open market.
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Mattbob
> jimz
09/23/2016 at 14:42 |
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yup. A lot of our ABS connectors are Yazaki, or Bosch and are a bitch to get through third party suppliers, but general sensor connectors etc aren’t bad.
Dave the car guy , still here
> Frank Grimes
09/23/2016 at 16:19 |
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Here is a site where you can ID most connectors.
http://www.acdelcotechconnect.com/parts-catalog/wiring-sockets-pigtails-catalog/
Its Delco, but they source Delphi, Bosch, VDO, Lear, Yazaki, Sumitomo and AFL for connectors on GM vehicles. The bonus here is that many of these connector used on other cars of many makes. I’ve gotten connectors through our dealership, Amazon or eBay by figuring out which is correct by the photos. Since GM has had joint projects with many manufacturers I’ve been able to get connectors for Isuzu, VW/Audi, Saab, Toyota, Ford, Nissan, Mazda and Suzuki. It just takes some common sense and logic to navigate the search section. The last fun one I figured out was a sensor connector for one of our employees with a Miata. He had an iPhone picture of the terminals that we figured it out from. Otherwise he would have had to buy a harness. Most of them will include heat shrink crimp connectors and about 16-18" of non-color-coded wires so you have to make sure where each wire goes before discarding the old connector.
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Frank Grimes
> Dave the car guy , still here
09/23/2016 at 21:40 |
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dude thats freaking awesome! thanks. Most of my problem is I dont even know what terminology to use to search google. I Love that there’s photos.
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Frank Grimes
> Mattbob
09/23/2016 at 21:46 |
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any recommendations for screwdrivers I do have some small ones but today trying to pull a connector out of a housing took forever!
AMGtech - now with more recalls!
> Frank Grimes
09/24/2016 at 02:50 |
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Ninja stars!
Electrical pin removal tool, specifically made for disengaging locking tabs in pins to remove them from connector housings. Some connectors also have a tab or panel that needs to first be disengaged. A small number of connectors cannot be disassembled without damaging them, usually SRS stuff
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Dave the car guy , still here
> Frank Grimes
09/24/2016 at 11:22 |
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The photos have been a lifesaver more than once. Another alternative to ordering terminals is take a photo and head to the local Pull-a-Part or Pick-a-Part wrecking yard with a $20 and wire cutters. I once got about 5-6 connectors for my old Audi B5 and still had enough to buy lunch. Don’t just look at your model car but look at all cars connectors. You’ll be surprised what you’ll find. Take phone pics before you go. I did it when I needed a washer pump connector and coolant sensor plugs. Found the washer pump one on a GM car and the coolant sensor one on a VW.
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Frank Grimes
> AMGtech - now with more recalls!
09/24/2016 at 14:00 |
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Sweet need to pick one or two o those.
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Mattbob
> Frank Grimes
09/25/2016 at 18:46 |
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whatever works and is thin enough really. If you want some really good screwdrivers, go with Wiha though. Usually on automotive connectors there is a plastic detent system that you have to pop up or move somehow, then you can use a small screwdriver or something to depress the retention tab on the actual metal terminal and pull it out easily. On some larger connectors I have even seen 2 types of plastic mechanisms that you have to disengage before you pull out the terminal.